The Elegant Chiado of the Glove Shops

This time, in getLISBON invites, we present a reflection by Luís Bayó Veiga on Chiado of yesteryear. An elegant Chiado, filled with fashionable shops importing the latest trends from Paris, a tendency that arose from the invasions and the shift in mentality following the French Revolution. Fashion accessories were just as important as the outfits themselves, and gloves, in particular, were symbols of distinction, luxury, and charm. Here, we remember glove shops that disappeared decades ago, as well as the enduring Luvaria Ulisses, which continues to enchant visitors with the uniqueness of its tiny yet distinguished space.

The Import of Parisian Sophistication

The period during which French General Junot governed Lisbon, between 1807 and 1808, marked a profound transformation of Lisbon society, leaving an indelible mark on the city and even becoming symbolic of an era of great change.

The French invasion and the subsequent flight of the Portuguese Court to Brazil brought with them a new culture, customs, and, above all, a fashion that mirrored Parisian sophistication. It became fashionable to introduce new words or phrases from the French language into Portuguese vocabulary, dubbed “Frenchisms”, many of which are still used today.

Despite political instability, Lisbon’s aristocracy did not abandon its social life. Opera at São Carlos, theatre performances, charity fairs, social gatherings, and tea dances became even more frequent and luxurious. Numerous balls were held in the lavishly decorated and gas-lit halls of palaces and mansions belonging to high society, filled with ladies and gentlemen proudly displaying the latest French fashion.

Regarding the trends from Paris arriving in Lisbon, women’s fashion, in particular, underwent a profound transformation. Dresses with high waists and voluminous skirts were adorned with lace, ribbons, and other details mimicking Parisian models. Hats, decorated with feathers and flowers, completed the look of the most sophisticated ladies.

Chiado, the cultural and social heart of Lisbon, was the favoured meeting spot for high society, or the “elegant society,” as it was then called.

Focusing on the elegant Chiado between the late 1800s and the early 1900s, it was here that the main shops were located, fully stocked with the latest Parisian fashion, le dernier cri —fabrics, clothing, hats, fans, gloves, shoes, lingerie — alongside perfumeries, hairdressers, and much more to meet the demands of glamour and human vanity at the time.

There was no shortage of dressmakers, almost all of French origin, who proliferated throughout Chiado and neighbouring streets. Some of them even advertised that they catered to the “serene highnesses” of the Royal House in their ateliers, which sometimes served as discreet venues for romantic encounters…

Gloves, a Symbol of Elegance and Sophistication

Gloves were a prominent feature in the elegance of attire during the time when Chiado was the beating heart of Lisbon.

More than just an accessory, gloves added a touch of charm, indispensable for any man or woman concerned with their image and personal style in the society they were in.

Besides protecting the hands, gloves added sophistication and refinement to any ensemble. The choice of colour, material, and length varied depending on the occasion and the outfit.

Responding to the demand, several glove shops emerged in Chiado, mainly located in Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, but also in other parts of Baixa.

Here, we recall some of them:

With the exception of Luvaria Ulisses, which still stands in Rua do Carmo, all the others have disappeared.

The fashion of wearing gloves as an accessory of glamour and charm for the upper and elegant classes who strolled through Chiado has also vanished. The elegant Chiado, too, although it still holds the highest concentration of shops with interiors and façades that, despite their new uses, bear witness to another era of sophistication that must be preserved.

Read Luís Bayó Veiga’s articles
– The Area of Cais do Sodré: Origins and Experiences
– A Brief History of the Tagus Estuary Boats
in the getLISBON convida series.

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