Lisboa em Nós de Evanne Schmarder

Lisbon in Us by Evanne Schmarder

Evanne is an American that has moved with her husband to the heart of Lisbon, after 18 years in an RV travelling across the US. In Lisbon in Us by Evanne Schmarder, she’ll be sharing her experience of living in our city.

Evanne Schmarder’s relationship with Lisbon

I remember it like it was yesterday, the first night I slept in my new hometown, Lisbon. The room was dark, the bed was comfortable, and, despite jet lag and the excitement of the day, I was ready to fall asleep. Outside were unfamiliar sounds; silence punctuated by my new life – restaurant employees dragging garbage cans over the ancient calçada – bump bump bump bump – late-night merrymakers passing through our charming Mouraria square, a neighbor’s soft music rich with the zhs and suzh of the Portuguese language. 

I was here, in Portugal, and tomorrow I’d awaken on Portuguese soil. And not just that, but in the country’s capital, throbbing with a life I yearned to discover. 

Those first few years were exhilarating. After uma bica and a bun, my husband and I would leave our flat, heading on foot in any direction we fancied. Regardless of what we chose, adventure appeared. From the spectacular street art (some hidden, some city-sanctioned) to kiosks and cafes filled with tourists and locals alike, a quick listen to a tour guide telling the history of this great city, and buskers along the Rio Tejo, we were enchanted. There aren’t too many Lisboan streets that we haven’t traipsed, photographed, and fallen in love with.

Along the way, I’ve had the good fortune to meet and interact with many Portuguese people. Even with the language barrier, I am able to communicate with a couple that live on the same floor as I do, one building over. We’ll both be gazing out our windows, look over at one another, and do our best to say hello, ask how we’re doing, and remark on the weather. Turns out they’re local celebrities. Who knew? 

Then there was the older woman who stopped me on one of Lisbon’s hilly sidewalks, telling me of her vision impairment, taking my arm, and asking me to help her cross the street.

We developed a soft spot for the father and son that own our favorite bifana bar. I’d often tell Papa that he made the best omelet sandwiches in the city. He’d glow. When Papa became ill and eventually passed, we mourned with his son and did what we could to offer support. 

These and dozens of other experiences have deeply affected me, sinking into my being and influencing every part of my life.

Lisbon is in me. It wasn’t something that I had any say over; it swept me off my feet. True, I didn’t grow up here and still struggle with the language. Yet the fabled Lisbon light, the beauty and contradiction of old and new, the diversity, the obvious delight when I reply to a local’s question about how I like the city, the hole-in-the-wall eating establishments that blow my mind, the pride of small business owners, fado in the streets, and the incredible kindness of the people gives me immense pleasure to say that, while I’ll never be a native, I am – through and through – a Lisboeta. 

Lisbon in Us by Evanne Schmarder
Mini introductionAfter 18 years of living in an RV and traveling the United States, this California girl picked up sticks and, with her husband of 30+ years, moved to their lovely Lisboa. She’s the founder and publisher of the award winning, free with subscription publication Relish Portugal – the English language food and culture magazine for Portugal lovers everywhere.
An inspiring placeJardim da Estrela for a picnic, kiosk café, people watching, and a slice of local life.
An unmissable visitAny exhibit going on at the Museu de Lisboa’s Terreiro do Paço West Tower at Praça do Comércio.
Her mouth waters with…Bifana with yellow mustard and piri-piri oil from Triângulo da Ribeira, preferably standing elbow to elbow at the small counter.
A song…Balancê by Sara Tavares
Never miss another article | Subscribe here

The project getLISBON has been very rewarding and we want to continue revealing the singularities of fascinating Lisbon.
Help us keep this project alive!

By using these links to make your reservations you’ll be supporting us. With no extra costs!

• Look up the best hotels on and get 15% or more off!
• Looking for a different experience? We can create a customised itinerary based on your interests. Contact us!
• Or if you prefer tours and other activities in various destinations, take a look at GetYourGuide.
• Save time and money with a flexible Lisbon Card!

Scroll to Top